To the center of the Earth and back....

I left the mystery and magic of the Nazca lines and the dessert behind and boarded an all night bus for Arequipa, Peru´s second largest city, which sit´s nestled below the dominate peaks of active volcanoes. Already at 10,000 feet, I was eager to move higher, and soon boarded another bus to take me deeper into the mountains, where 12,000-12,500 foot peaks drop dramatically into the deepest canyon in the world. (The Canyon De Cola is twice as big as the Grand Canyon).

I shrugged off the guided tours and the suggested itineraries, and supplied with energy bars, my map, water purification tablets, Ritz, a Peruvian version of Oreos, and a backpack that was wayyyyyy to heavy, set off into the wild to explore.

The mountains came out swinging straight from gate, I caught a right hook to the face: altitude sickness. Loss of appetite, insomnia, and a headache that made my brain feel like mush. 12 hours later, I was back on my feet, and with a mouthful of coca leaves was feeling better that ever. I began my descent into the canyon among the most amazing views I have ever seen. Huge mountain peaks dropping forever into the valley below, where the River twisted and turned its way through the canyon, daring me to get closer. The minutes turned to hours and the meters turned to kilometers as I worked my way down to the canyon floor. Soaring condors with 10 foot wing spans were my only companions as the canyon floor came into view.

5 hours later I reached my first destination on the canyon floor, and every blister inducing step down was worth it. I cooled my aching legs and back in the river, and then relaxed further in the natural hot springs on the rivers edge. Back and forth I went, cooling off in the icy river, and climbing out of the river and into mineral rich hot springs. As the sun slid behind the peaks I had descended I lay down my sleeping bag, and watched as more stars than I believed existed, filled the sky. I was not sleeping under the stars, but I was among them. The stars filled the sky to such an extreme, it was unbelievable. The shooting stars were so bright, and close, I could seem them even when my eyes were closed. It was incredible.

I spent the next 4 days pushing deeper into the canyon, fighting off more punches from the mountain, sunburn through my shirt, epic blisters, heat exhaustion. My calf's and quads begged for mercy as I pushed up another crest for a view of a new waterfall or gyser. Water was scarce and was my one true concern. Whenever I would find a creek, river, or stream, I would stop to rest. Drink what was left in my water bottle, if there was anything, and refill it with the new water and treat it with the purification tablets. In some cases, where I had gone miles without finding water, I would wait the mandatory 35 mins before drinking the water, drink it all, and then do the treatment process all over again.

The last night in the canyon, I stayed at a posada at the rivers edge. I spent the late afternoon in the river, relaxing, enjoying the magic of the views, and watching the incredible effectiveness of the local fishermen's home made nets. That night I enjoyed the fruits of their labor with my first meal in 4 days, fresh, and I mean FRESH caught trout from the river. It has never tasted so good.

Up at dawn, I spent the next 8 hours hiking back up the from canyon. Past still used Inca terracing, past endless pastures of corn, and up endless kilometers of mountain I trekked. My calf's and quads got tired of being tired and simply stopped being sore, when I thought I couldn´t go another step without water, I found a stream, and when I lost the path, I found a new one. When I looked down at where I had been, and now where I was, a great feeling of pride washed over me and I limped back into town with a smile on my face.

Bus Drivers Recieve Commission?

Imagine a small mini van, converted into a quasi taxi, where metal bars line the ceiling as makeshift hand rails, and additional seats have been stripped from dead cars and strapped into the back using wire, and in some cases duct tape. The sliding door is manned by an individual who will convince anyone that, "Yes, this is the right taxi" and usher you in. His head is either permentantly out the window yelling out our bus number and destination to people standing or walking on the street. Or he is hanging out the door, doing the same. Either way, he clearly receives a % of the fare for every traveler, and convinces more people than you think is possible onto the bus. I have taken several bus rides at this point, nd have come to the conclusion that no acual bus stops exsist. Meaning, we are liable to pull over and yell at people walking or standing at any time, attemepting to get them on the bus-which ussualy happens. I will update this post when I get to an internet cafe that allows me to upload pictures. My first meal included a quarter pound whole chicken, salad, and more fries than you thought possible to fit on a plate. Oh, and an Inca Cola to wash it down. Total cost, $2.50.

Destination unknown

11/3/08 6:15pm

I´m on the train from SD to LAX right now, my journey has begun. Ipod in, feet up, and watching the miles fly by out the window. It´s dark outside, so I can´t see where Im going, but it´s fitting, because I don´t know there this trip will take me either. Like the train ride, I know it´s destination, but what I will see, who I will meet, and what I will experince all remain to be discovered, and won´t be found on maps.

The world is a book and those who do not travel only read one page...

The countdown has reached zero, preparations are complete, and tomorrow evening I board a plane for Lima, Peru. I have left everyone I know and the majority of everything I own behind as I begin my search for my personal legend in the South of America. I hope to use this blog as a record of my travels, experiences, and a medium for keeping in touch with all my friends and loved ones, as visits to places with Internet access will hopefully be few and far between. Beginning tomorrow, Microsoft Outlook, the monthly gross, and daily grind will come to a halt, replaced with travel, adventure, excitement, and not knowing what to expect when I get off the next bus.... With love, Ian